Changing your brake pads on your mountain bike

The two videos attached, show the process, one with a Shimano system the other with a SRAM.

I created the two videos below to show you how it's done.  

Watch the video and read the instructions below carefully before starting the process on your own.  Do the work on your own bike and finish with a feeling of accomplishment. The process is pretty simple. Just take your time. 

So, you're ready to hit the trails, but before you do, it's essential to ensure your mountain bike's brakes are in top condition.

 I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process.

First things first, gather your tools and a set of compatible brake pads for your bike.

I’m using the TraxFactory Stomper Compound pads. These pads are high quality and made for numerous braking systems, including Magura, SRAM, Hayes, and Shimano. Check the website for the make and model of your brakes to ensure you get the right set of pads. 

Step 1: Gather Your Tools

Before we begin, make sure you have all your tools ready: new brake pads specific to your bike's brake system, Allen keys or screwdrivers, a rag or paper towel, rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner, a small brush, and pliers if needed.

Step 2: Remove the Wheel, this is optional depending upon how easy or hard it may be to get to your brake pads. 

I  will start by removing the wheel, in this case the front wheel for the example,  to give yourself more space to work. This step is not always necessary but can make the process easier.

Step 3: Remove the Old Brake Pads

Locate the brake pads and the retention mechanism. It could be a bolt or pin.

Use the appropriate tool to loosen and remove the retaining hardware.

Slide out the old brake pads from the brake caliper.

Step 4: Clean the Brake Caliper

The caliper may need to be pushed back, to allow the pads, now thicker being they are new.  Use a plastic tire lever to ease them back without damaging them. “Do not use a metal tool of any kind” or a screwdriver, as this could damage the caliper and piston(s). 

Keep the new pads clean and avoid touching them with your hands as the oils in your skin can contaminate the pads, not allowing them to perform their best.  Some type of rubber glove with help from the oils from your hand touching the new pads. 

-Clean the brake caliper thoroughly using rubbing alcohol and a small brush. Remove any dirt, oil, or debris that could affect braking performance.

During this entire time when the pads have been removed, DO NOT squeeze the brake lever on your handlebars! 

Step 5: Install the New Brake Pads

Take your new brake pads and insert them into the brake caliper.

Make sure to keep the spring attached to them, that is how the pads return to their position after applying. 

Ensure they are correctly positioned and align with the braking surface.

Reinstall the retaining bolt or pin to secure the new brake pads in place.

Step 6: Adjust if Necessary

Check the alignment of the brake pads with the rim or disc rotor.

Make any necessary adjustments using the adjustment screws on the brake caliper to ensure even contact.

To recenter the pads after installation, loosen the brake housing, then while applying the brake, tighten the housing bolts down. 

Let go of the brake lever and the pads should now be centered on the rotor. 

Step 7: Reinstall the Wheel

If you removed the wheel, securely reinstall it onto the bike.

Step 8: Test the Brakes

Squeeze the brake lever to test the brakes.

Spin the wheel and check for any rubbing or uneven braking.

Make further adjustments if necessary to optimize brake performance.

Step 9: Bedding-in Process (Optional but Recommended)

Optionally, go for a gentle ride, applying the brakes lightly to allow the new pads to bed into the rotor surface.

Step 10: Final Checks

Double-check all bolts and pins to ensure they are tightened securely.

Verify that the brake pads are clean and free from any contamination.

And there you have it! You've successfully changed the brake pads on your mountain bike. Now you're ready to hit the trails with confidence.

Follow these simple instructions for the other set of brake pads and you’re done.  

Make sure you do some research and find out the best pads, size shape and material to fit your brake system. 

Replacing my SRAM SX rear derailleur and NX cassette

Over the past month, warranty repairs are finally done. 

Top - replacement SX 12 gear derailleur

Bottom - Non working spring back derailleur 

So my issues all started when I was riding with some friends. About six miles into our mountain bike ride, as I was pedaling, my chain dropped.  I stopped to put is back on the front chain ring but noticed the one jockey wheel on my derailleur came off.  I was able to find the parts along the trail I was on and thankfully repair the part that came off. 

When I got home, I looked over the derailleur really good and made some adjustments on it.  However, this time the chain would climb up the cassette but not return back down.  After working with it for some time, I was able to start of the process of getting a new replacement one under warranty.  The process was pretty fast, but not fast enough, as I had to do my July 4th, 20 mile trail challenge with limited gears with the new derailleur arriving the weekend after. An update I am loving about the replacement derailleur is the limit adjustment screws are now allen key screws, replacing the Phillips head limit screws. 

older SX 12 gear derailleur with Phillips head limit screws

NEWER SX 12 gear derailleur with allen key head limit screws

After getting the new derailleur attached and adjusted and working great, my chain, which is under two months old, was skipping around and having a hard time on the third to biggest cassette cog.  One tooth was missing on that particular cog.  Knowing that this part too was under warranty, I started the process to get it replaced also.  In the meantime needing to keep riding and training, I just had to be aware of when switching gears not to ride in that cog. Over the two weeks while I waited for the replacement part, the cog went from a first grader missing one tooth to a hockey player, now missing a section of the cog which I think should have been three or four teeth! 

New cassette arrived and I was able to place it on the wheel.  All is good for now as I have some challenges and training goals I am looking forward to. 

"Look Ma, I have all my teeth."

In the end, I understand the groupset, I am running is not the highest quality SRAM makes and I am looking at saving up some money to upgrade before too long.  SRAM and the local bike store I have been dealing with have been great. 

Giant 2020 Stance 2 29er

After having warranty issues with another bike manufacture, I read up a lot of different bikes that would be in my price range.  There were a few options that the new bike would have to have. I wanted to try and find a full-suspension 29 inch wheel bike. First off, I wanted to stay with the 29 inch rims.  The big or bigger rims seem to go over the rough desert terrain better. I wanted full suspension for a better ride and cushion some of the rough downhills I come upon. An option I was also looking to have was a dropper post on my seat. This isn’t a necessity but a great luxury when navigating rough downhills, wanting to move the seat out of the way. 

Searching up and down online and seeing what others have said on certain components, frames and manufactures. With the internet, there is a lot to search. 

Giant 2020 Stance 2 29er which has an alloy frame, SRAM SX 1X12 Eagle drive train, Suntour Raidon air shock and fork. Now these are not the top of the line or greatest shocks on the market, but they work within my budget.  

I wanted something that was going to work for me, not cost more than my vehicle or anything like that. 

Riding it for the past three months, I can say it's a great bike. The fit is perfect and the 1X12 SRAM SX Eagle drive train is sweet.