Changing your brake pads on your mountain bike

The two videos attached, show the process, one with a Shimano system the other with a SRAM.

I created the two videos below to show you how it's done.  

Watch the video and read the instructions below carefully before starting the process on your own.  Do the work on your own bike and finish with a feeling of accomplishment. The process is pretty simple. Just take your time. 

So, you're ready to hit the trails, but before you do, it's essential to ensure your mountain bike's brakes are in top condition.

 I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process.

First things first, gather your tools and a set of compatible brake pads for your bike.

I’m using the TraxFactory Stomper Compound pads. These pads are high quality and made for numerous braking systems, including Magura, SRAM, Hayes, and Shimano. Check the website for the make and model of your brakes to ensure you get the right set of pads. 

Step 1: Gather Your Tools

Before we begin, make sure you have all your tools ready: new brake pads specific to your bike's brake system, Allen keys or screwdrivers, a rag or paper towel, rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner, a small brush, and pliers if needed.

Step 2: Remove the Wheel, this is optional depending upon how easy or hard it may be to get to your brake pads. 

I  will start by removing the wheel, in this case the front wheel for the example,  to give yourself more space to work. This step is not always necessary but can make the process easier.

Step 3: Remove the Old Brake Pads

Locate the brake pads and the retention mechanism. It could be a bolt or pin.

Use the appropriate tool to loosen and remove the retaining hardware.

Slide out the old brake pads from the brake caliper.

Step 4: Clean the Brake Caliper

The caliper may need to be pushed back, to allow the pads, now thicker being they are new.  Use a plastic tire lever to ease them back without damaging them. “Do not use a metal tool of any kind” or a screwdriver, as this could damage the caliper and piston(s). 

Keep the new pads clean and avoid touching them with your hands as the oils in your skin can contaminate the pads, not allowing them to perform their best.  Some type of rubber glove with help from the oils from your hand touching the new pads. 

-Clean the brake caliper thoroughly using rubbing alcohol and a small brush. Remove any dirt, oil, or debris that could affect braking performance.

During this entire time when the pads have been removed, DO NOT squeeze the brake lever on your handlebars! 

Step 5: Install the New Brake Pads

Take your new brake pads and insert them into the brake caliper.

Make sure to keep the spring attached to them, that is how the pads return to their position after applying. 

Ensure they are correctly positioned and align with the braking surface.

Reinstall the retaining bolt or pin to secure the new brake pads in place.

Step 6: Adjust if Necessary

Check the alignment of the brake pads with the rim or disc rotor.

Make any necessary adjustments using the adjustment screws on the brake caliper to ensure even contact.

To recenter the pads after installation, loosen the brake housing, then while applying the brake, tighten the housing bolts down. 

Let go of the brake lever and the pads should now be centered on the rotor. 

Step 7: Reinstall the Wheel

If you removed the wheel, securely reinstall it onto the bike.

Step 8: Test the Brakes

Squeeze the brake lever to test the brakes.

Spin the wheel and check for any rubbing or uneven braking.

Make further adjustments if necessary to optimize brake performance.

Step 9: Bedding-in Process (Optional but Recommended)

Optionally, go for a gentle ride, applying the brakes lightly to allow the new pads to bed into the rotor surface.

Step 10: Final Checks

Double-check all bolts and pins to ensure they are tightened securely.

Verify that the brake pads are clean and free from any contamination.

And there you have it! You've successfully changed the brake pads on your mountain bike. Now you're ready to hit the trails with confidence.

Follow these simple instructions for the other set of brake pads and you’re done.  

Make sure you do some research and find out the best pads, size shape and material to fit your brake system. 

Shimano MT200 Brake Pad Replacement with video

It’s not always low hydraulic fluid that lead to spongy brakes. Check your brake pads to see if they are worn and need to be replaced. 

After reinstalling the wheel, spin the wheel to see if the rotor is rubbing. 

To help center the rotor in the brake caliper, , squeeze the brake lever while using a 5 mm Allen key to loosen the brake caliper to the fork. Then tighten and let go of the lever, the adjustment should have helped center the rotor in the new brake pads you just installed. 

After this installation of the new pads , if your brakes are still spongy you might need to bleed or add brake fluid. 

Brush Hero makes cleaning your bike faster

I use a diluted solution of Simple Green, a degreaser, to clean my bike. Spray a little on, let it go to work and soak in, then follow it up using the Brush Hero.  Let the rotating brush go to work as the water rinses away the Simple Green and the dirt and grime. Forget breaking out the bucket for soap and water, the Brush Hero/Simple Green combination has sped up my bike cleaning process. 


Order yours through this link

http://bit.ly/2JjS9YU

Pedro's Chain Pig, Hands-Free cleaner with VIDEO

Pedro's Chain Pig, Hands-Free cleaner with VIDEO

Regular bike maintenance will increase the life of your bikes parts. Washing, adjusting and lubricating are all must. Pedro’s makes this easy to use chain cleaner. With it being easy to use, it makes doing the maintenance less of a hassle. I have had other chain cleaners in the past. Not very good ones, that’s for sure. Not only were they terrible to use, but really didn’t do a good job. For both my road and mountain bike, I recently started using the Pedro’s Chain Pig.  I am extremely satisfied with it so far. Easy to use and I think does the best job cleaning the chain over all the others I have used in the past.  Of course the best way to really clean the chain, would be to fully remove it. Attach the Chain Pig to the lower part of your chain. 

Then fill it with your favorite degreaser through the port on the top of the Pig, there is a “fill line” on the Pig to show you how much to fill it with. It can be used with any degreaser or bike wash. To work this cleaner your chain will be running backwards, or counter-clockwise. The Chain Pig lets you leave the chain on your bike the way it is. As your chain rotates around, the wheels inside with brushes hit your chain from all angles, scrubbing it for you inside the pig.  The chain exits the Pig through a sponge, cleaning off the solution on the sides and bottom of the chain but not in between the links. A feature I love of this chain cleaner is the hands-free part.  The other chain cleaners I have used in the past, you had to hold your left hand on the cleaner, keeping the cleaner in place, while rotating the chain with the pedal of your right hand.

 The hands-free of this cleaner comes into play with a derailleur hook, or in this case the Pig's tail. It simply hooks around the lower bottom bracket pulley wheel on your rear derailleur. This keeps it in place, so your left hand is now free while still using your right hand to rotate the chain around.  I rotate the chain around until a dirty foam has formed on the chain, then undo the Chain Pig, scrub the cassette with the included brush or other brush, then rinse off with light pressured water. 

You could go back again, of course, and scrub certain links or areas that did not get the grime out. I do this simple and easy cleaning of my chain and cassette about every three or four rides, depending upon how dirty the chain gets from the dusty trails. 

The chain did become cleaner, there was s few links and in between some links needed to be scrubbed a lot better.  Keep in mind that the lubricant you put on the chain after cleaning will lubricate the metal on metal parts while attracting dirt from the road air.